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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 9/12/2012
Posts: 485
Location: San Diego, California
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Pretty simple, just take the undercarriage of any of the Ertl small excavators (9030, cx210, LC200, etc) and swap it on. To put the 215 undercarriage on the donervater, you'll need washers or a spacer of sports. I used a bit of thick rubber tubing. The Ertl UC screws right on as long as you use the 215 washer. If you can find a longer screw it'll work better, but the equipped one works fine for display models. Looks pretty goo IMO, kind of gives it that LGP look.  
Boom hydraulic modWe all know how lame the dig depth is on the Ertl small excavator line, so I found a way to get more depth. Take a small tap and with a small plastic hammer, or the handle of a screw driver, lightly and as direct as possible, tap the piston side pin out of the boom. Remove the two metal pistons. Remove approximately 4-5 mm of length (double check your measurements!). You'll also need to file down the raised ring one the sleeve. Replace the pin and use the punch or a brad and spread the open end of the rivet pin back out. Enjoy a more realistic range. The only issue I had is the boom does not hold itself up as well anymore. It was worth it to me.  Before  After   
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Member
Joined: 6/5/2007
Posts: 2,774
Location: Sarasota, Florida, USA
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Dex, what you can do to get the stiffness back into the cylinder is to make the cut end of the cylinder rod not round as was the area that was cut off. You can lightly tap it with a hammer on either a bench block or other hard surface to kind of flatten out the rod end, be sure to check it in the jacket so you don't over flatten it. Another thing you can do if you don't have a hard surface or something to flatten the rod is to put a drop or two of super glue on the rod down where you cut it, not on the end but the round side about 1-2mm up from the cut end, let this dry and then put back into the cylinder jacket and it should hold just right, if not take out and drop a drop or two mor and let dry again and repeat as necessary.
The hammer route is a little more permanent though and works way better but just be careful as too much flattening may cause the plastic jacket to split!!
Dain
I'm a kid at heart, so I will play with any model construction vehicle from 1:87 scale to 1:1 scale!!!!
Age is a state of time NOT a state of mind!!
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Member
Joined: 9/12/2012
Posts: 485
Location: San Diego, California
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dain555 wrote:Dex, what you can do to get the stiffness back into the cylinder is to make the cut end of the cylinder rod not round as was the area that was cut off. You can lightly tap it with a hammer on either a bench block or other hard surface to kind of flatten out the rod end, be sure to check it in the jacket so you don't over flatten it. Another thing you can do if you don't have a hard surface or something to flatten the rod is to put a drop or two of super glue on the rod down where you cut it, not on the end but the round side about 1-2mm up from the cut end, let this dry and then put back into the cylinder jacket and it should hold just right, if not take out and drop a drop or two mor and let dry again and repeat as necessary.
The hammer route is a little more permanent though and works way better but just be careful as too much flattening may cause the plastic jacket to split!! I think I understand what you mean. So tap the end where the arrow is pointing?  PS I like your signature quote btw  The day we stop doing what we truly love, is the day we stop living. I grew up in a construction family; this hobby allows me to relive all those days of spending time on my parents and grandparents job sites. Replicating those pieces of equipment that I fell in love with. I am anxious to become an active contributing member of this forum. You guys have awoken my inner kid and hobbyist.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Member
Joined: 12/30/2008
Posts: 3,439
Location: Good ol' Indiana
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I have always wanted a NZG 215. Just needs a mono boom. Good little tip for the two excavators.
-Ethan Collection 8/2/2016For more of the Diorama and my collection: On Facebook or On YouTube
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Member
Joined: 6/5/2007
Posts: 2,774
Location: Sarasota, Florida, USA
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That is the end of the rod to tap on just be sure to do it on the round side to make it flatten out a wee bit and test it every time to make sure you don't over flatten it.
Thanks, I was brought up on construction thru my brother as he worked for the New York State DOT as a materials sampler and then became an engineer so I have seen a lot of road construction with him and also some destruction too. He used to take me to work with him a lot and at the age of 9 I ran my first 966 Cat loader and at 10 I ran a $40,000 automation board for a concrete plant!! I had gone to work with my dad before but his job(s) weren't as exciting as my brother's, dad worked as a school maintenance superintendent, a park superintendent and for himself as a carpenter. Well come time I joined the USAF and got put into Pavement Maintenance (which is similar to what my brother did) and I also worked Railroad Maintenance as part of that field. I really wanted to be a USAF firefighter but they said I didn't have depth perception so the put me into pavements, go figure. I also went to school for what was called Conservation/Recreation were I learned how to run dozers and backhoes.
But the one thing I have never lost is my imagination and the willingness to play with "toys", heck I even still do sound effects of diesel engines and air brakes!! I have made people think they were being followed by a tractor trailer at times!!!!
Dain
I'm a kid at heart, so I will play with any model construction vehicle from 1:87 scale to 1:1 scale!!!!
Age is a state of time NOT a state of mind!!
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