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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Member
Joined: 8/27/2014 Posts: 305 Location: Canada, Alberta
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Hey guys I just got my model and it is very impressive and looks great on the desk, however I do have a few questions maybe you guys could help out with?
1. My beacons have this white crap around them from like glue maybe? Did you guys have this and how did you get it off?
2. Why does the back of the crane by the counter weights tilt up and down? It can flip up and down slightly but what's the point of that function if it just stays down when displayed?
3. I am new to reeving hook blocks so I did the best I could and it works but I don't think it is proper do you guys have a general rule for reeving?
4. Why did NZG ship two toothpicks and a little aluminum pendant?
This model is pretty amazing and I am glad I decided to take this one in Denzai, Does anyone know how many of each livery is made?
A Millwright..... in Alberta.
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Member
Joined: 2/27/2006 Posts: 1,298 Location: Somewhere in the USA
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Alberta Millwright wrote:Hey guys I just got my model and it is very impressive and looks great on the desk, however I do have a few questions maybe you guys could help out with?
1. My beacons have this white crap around them from like glue maybe? Did you guys have this and how did you get it off?
I did not have that issue with mine. A little Goof Off and patience should clear it up.
2. Why does the back of the crane by the counter weights tilt up and down? It can flip up and down slightly but what's the point of that function if it just stays down when displayed?
Not sure what you are referring to but I don't recall any part on the rear of mine flipping up. Pics?
3. I am new to reeving hook blocks so I did the best I could and it works but I don't think it is proper do you guys have a general rule for reeving?
I did left to right on the block with my 11200.
4. Why did NZG ship two toothpicks and a little aluminum pendant?
The picks and thread puller are to make the reeving easier. I use those tools on all my cranes and it saves a ton of time. Patience is still key here.
This model is pretty amazing and I am glad I decided to take this one in Denzai, Does anyone know how many of each livery is made?
There are two rules for success: 1. Never tell everything you know.
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Member
Joined: 1/11/2007 Posts: 9,004 Location: Lincolnshire
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Alberta Millwright wrote:Hey guys I just got my model and it is very impressive and looks great on the desk, however I do have a few questions maybe you guys could help out with?
1. My beacons have this white crap around them from like glue maybe? Did you guys have this and how did you get it off? I have not had this problem. Be gentle but I'm guessing this will wipe off. Quote:2. Why does the back of the crane by the counter weights tilt up and down? It can flip up and down slightly but what's the point of that function if it just stays down when displayed? Not really sure what you mean here, unless you mean the drum with the string on? Quote:3. I am new to reeving hook blocks so I did the best I could and it works but I don't think it is proper do you guys have a general rule for reeving? Rule of thumb - start on the left and finish on the right. Larger blocks sometimes use a different method. Quote:4. Why did NZG ship two toothpicks and a little aluminum pendant? Aluminium pendant is just a piece with no use. Toothpicks can be used to help reeving I guess but I've never used them yet. Quote:This model is pretty amazing and I am glad I decided to take this one in Denzai, Does anyone know how many of each livery is made? Not sure but I think 300?? Paul R
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Member
Joined: 2/27/2006 Posts: 1,298 Location: Somewhere in the USA
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The aluminum pendant is used to pull the thread through the pulley and safety bar while keeping it on the pulley you put it through.
That thing saved my ass when reeving the A Frame on the LR1600. Its worth its weight in gold.
There are two rules for success: 1. Never tell everything you know.
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Member
Joined: 1/11/2007 Posts: 9,004 Location: Lincolnshire
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EastCoastFabricator wrote:The aluminum pendant is used to pull the thread through the pulley and safety bar while keeping it on the pulley you put it through.
That thing saved my ass when reeving the A Frame on the LR1600. Its worth its weight in gold. Cheers. I never really knew that. Always used some Fray Check and threaded it through as normal. Paul R
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Member
Joined: 2/27/2006 Posts: 1,298 Location: Somewhere in the USA
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Paul R wrote:EastCoastFabricator wrote:The aluminum pendant is used to pull the thread through the pulley and safety bar while keeping it on the pulley you put it through.
That thing saved my ass when reeving the A Frame on the LR1600. Its worth its weight in gold. Cheers. I never really knew that. Always used some Fray Check and threaded it through as normal. Paul R Most of the time it is easy to use but if the bar is tight on the pulleys it takes a bit of patience and a good tug but it will still work. Never heard of Fray Check. Im assuming it makes the thread stiff?
There are two rules for success: 1. Never tell everything you know.
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Member
Joined: 1/11/2007 Posts: 9,004 Location: Lincolnshire
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Yes fray check makes it stiff. I believe BobM2004 told me about this.
Paul R
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Member
Joined: 9/22/2007 Posts: 5,860 Location: Louisville
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The beacons were probably glued back on, it's a common problem with that model, they break off easily. But almost every photo I've seen, the ones that break are always the left one. Right one is usually fine. But the pesky left one never wants to stay on for some reason.
Brandon my youtube channelMy Facebook Page
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Member
Joined: 8/27/2014 Posts: 305 Location: Canada, Alberta
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Someone is going to have to post a video on how to use that aluminum pendant.
Yea I was assuming my beacons were glued back on, which isn't really a big deal.
That tail piece I am talking about is the very back piece that has the "Denzai" decal on it. I can take a picture of it but it keeps tilting downwards and when I swing the model I have to tilt it up so it does not hit the outriggers when they are extended. (Maybe it is missing a screw or something).
I also notice when I am slewing the crane it gets caught up on something in one area and I can't seem to see anything so I may need to take it apart and check under the main ring.
A Millwright..... in Alberta.
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Member
Joined: 9/22/2007 Posts: 5,860 Location: Louisville
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Upper structure might be loose and need screws tightened it sounds like.
Brandon my youtube channelMy Facebook Page
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Member
Joined: 6/5/2007 Posts: 2,754 Location: Sarasota, Florida, USA
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All that aluminum pendant is, is an NZG embossed needle threader. If the wire breaks just go to a Walmart or sewing/craft store and buy more!! They also come with plastic handles. Easy way to do it is push wire thru where you want your string to go, put the string thru the wire loop and pull the thing back out. Just remember to put enough string thru the loop or it could come out. Another handy tool for reading is the beader ' s big eye needle, this is a 3 to 4 inch long needle that is split down the middle, same thing just put string in needle only you can push this one thru where the pulley is from one side to the other. This is better for reading the big hooks and cranes with multiple lines from boom tip to hook.
Dain
I'm a kid at heart, so I will play with any model construction vehicle from 1:87 scale to 1:1 scale!!!!
Age is a state of time NOT a state of mind!!
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Rank: Member Groups: Member
Joined: 1/13/2014 Posts: 21 Location: near Cairns FNQ Australia
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I think what you will find its actually the counterweight tray knocking on the outriggers. You need to thread the screw in and out a few times before you put the tray on and make sure its tight I had similar issue with my Denzai. Like dain55 said for cotton threader.
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Member
Joined: 1/11/2007 Posts: 9,004 Location: Lincolnshire
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Alberta Millwright wrote:
This model is pretty amazing and I am glad I decided to take this one in Denzai, Does anyone know how many of each livery is made?
Almost all liveries were 300 pc's, except the following: McNallys Fionn Mac Cumhaill - 100pcs, only 50 available to the collector. McNallys Big Hamish 200pcs. Mammoet 600pcs. Paul R
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Member
Joined: 2/27/2006 Posts: 1,298 Location: Somewhere in the USA
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On the topic of reeving tools....I wonder if the metal picks and tools a dentist uses would work well for reeving?
There are two rules for success: 1. Never tell everything you know.
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Member
Joined: 1/11/2007 Posts: 9,004 Location: Lincolnshire
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EastCoastFabricator wrote:On the topic of reeving tools....I wonder if the metal picks and tools a dentist uses would work well for reeving? I bought a set of reeving tools from Micromark that I think were designed for rigging ships. As a rooky rigger these were invaluable and even now, they help get me out of a fix! But to be honest, 80% of my reeving is done using FrayCheck and thin cardboard. Not to mention a healthy dose of patience Sometimes use those doctors tools - like mini scissor clamps? They have a special name but I do not remember it. Paul R
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Member
Joined: 2/27/2006 Posts: 1,298 Location: Somewhere in the USA
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Paul R wrote:EastCoastFabricator wrote:On the topic of reeving tools....I wonder if the metal picks and tools a dentist uses would work well for reeving? I bought a set of reeving tools from Micromark that I think were designed for rigging ships. As a rooky rigger these were invaluable and even now, they help get me out of a fix! But to be honest, 80% of my reeving is done using FrayCheck and thin cardboard. Not to mention a healthy dose of patience Sometimes use those doctors tools - like mini scissor clamps? They have a special name but I do not remember it. Paul R Ah! I never thought of using cardboard. I will have to purchase some FrayCheck now. Sounds like it would be good stuff! Patience is still the hard part for me.
There are two rules for success: 1. Never tell everything you know.
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Member
Joined: 8/9/2005 Posts: 1,234 Location: Lancashire England
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Sometimes use those doctors tools - like mini scissor clamps? They have a special name but I do not remember it. Forceps Paul Steve.
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Member
Joined: 11/15/2003 Posts: 1,142 Location: North America
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Forceps in general terms, specifically hemostats.
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Member
Joined: 3/6/2012 Posts: 206
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birdman wrote:Sometimes use those doctors tools - like mini scissor clamps? They have a special name but I do not remember it. Forceps Paul Steve. I believe the name you're looking for is a hemostat. They do the job when it comes to revving the sheaves.
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Member
Joined: 6/5/2007 Posts: 2,754 Location: Sarasota, Florida, USA
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Forceps/hemostats/roach clips, yes those work wonders because you can use them to weight down the lines and keep things from jumping some!!
Dain
I'm a kid at heart, so I will play with any model construction vehicle from 1:87 scale to 1:1 scale!!!!
Age is a state of time NOT a state of mind!!
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