Here is a Talbert beam trailer I am building for my Superliner. Alost ready for paint.


100_4981 by Ken Wheeler, on Flickr"/>


100_4982 by Ken Wheeler, on Flickr"/>


100_4983 by Ken Wheeler, on Flickr"/>

Looks good! That will be a nice combination!

Kerst

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http://forums.dhsdiecast.com/default.aspx?g=posts&m=1096251

WOW!!!Great build Ken!!! Can't wait till it comes out of the paint shop!!

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Dain

I'm a kid at heart, so I will play with any model construction vehicle from 1:87 scale to 1:1 scale!!!!

Age is a state of time NOT a state of mind!!

double post

Pay attention Q! I started with a Diecast Masters XL lowboy trailer deck (the flat deck with the out-rigger boards) and cut the outer areas off the main center section (frame) and machined ( filed, sanded) the outer sides smooth. I cut the length to 5 1/4 inches (21 scale foot). That is the usual size of a beam in the 80's. I cut the front off a Conrad Talbert lowboy off, machined (filed) and attached that to the front of the frame with two 080 brass screws and JB weld. I added four pieces of 1/4 in. wide brass strips (Special Shapes .082 thick I believe) the length of the frame for the top and bottom rails. I clamped the brass strips to the frame, drilled, tapped, and inserted 080 brass bolts in three locations on each of the brass strips. I cut the bolts flush and filed smooth. A little body putty might be needed around the bolt holes. I tried gluing the strips on with epoxy glue, that failed and they all came off. On the back I drilled a hole in the rear cross member, machined a horizontal slot in the Conrad rear deck for the beam to fit, drilled and tapped a 1-72 hole in the rear deck and attached with a steel 1-72 button head screw. That way the beam and rear deck can be painted separately and then assembled. In the front, between the first two cross members I cut and installed a piece of brass flush with the L and R brass rails. I cut the plastic vertical pin off the piece in the bottom of the neck that holds it to the deck. I drilled a 1-72 hole where the plastic pin was. I had soldered a small 1/8 brass piece on the bottom of the brass plate where the pin hole was going to be located. I drilled a hole in the brass plate matching the hole in the plastic holding plate, tapped, and attached with a 1-72 steel button head screw. I am waiting for some D-Rings to come for the sides, paint, and install a couple of marker lights. To do this again, I would prime and paint just the inside between the cross members before installing the brass strips. This would make it a lot easier to paint (the outside only) when it is finished.

I use a lot of the button head (needs a small allan wrench) screws too besides the brass bolts and screws. I buy nearly all of them from Micro Fasteners.
https://www.microfasteners.com/

I buy my brass from K&S Metals, they also have display in most hobby shops and a lot of hardware stores. They supply most other outlets. Amazon carries their brass also.

https://ksmetals.com/

Thanks Gregg, I appreciate the comments.

Thank you modelmaniac, I appreciate the comments.

Nice work Ken!