Got a handful more hours put in. I think I've lost my mind, I've decided to make 3 of these. 2 for my customer, and one for my collection. All 3 models are just about caught up with one another.


Cutting the outer portion of the arm supports:



After some grinding and filing. I used the score and snap method for the inner box cuts in case you were wondering.


Cutting the brass arms (each one is 2 pieces thick. I glue them together for ease of cutting, them I'll heat them apart later), the bandsaw was a great purchase.



Smoothing out all the cuts. I really need a bench 5" disk sander...




But damn if the finshed result isn't nice!




Things are starting to take shape.







So. You know that feeling you get when you break little rules, that little voice over your shoulder that says: "you really should lubricate that drill bit and put some oil on the metal your drilling" and that lazy voice goes: "Naw, it'll be fine, it'll just take a second" Yeah, listen to the first voice.......

The exploded bit:




The aftermath:



I got really lucky that was all the damage I did. I was able to repair it, but is was time I didn't need to waste had I just taken seconds to grab some oil.


Shrinking Sprockets down with my poor mans mill (vice and bench drill):






Well I'm.....exhausted..... time for a pint! Till next time folks, and thanks for watching!

Per my research: The smallest bandsaw I found was one that a company called Micromark sells. However I have a few issues with it that I feel outweigh the pros of it's size and variable speed ability. First, the internal wheels are only 6" wide which puts a lot more curve and strain on the blade, possibly leading to early breakage. My second issue is that MM is the only company that sells blade with a diameter small enough to fit it. Lastly, the lowest TPI (tooth per inch) they carry is 24 TPI (most every other bandsaw gets this option). Not really worth the $300.00 price tag. What I found to be most important for cutting brass is that the saw be capable of equipping a blade that is within the 18-32 TPI range, and most all can do that. For half the price you can get a bench-top bandsaw that will do everything the MM one can (sans the variable speed, which you can actually add with some DIY). The benchtop saw that I ended up going with is the Grizzy G0803 (I think I paid $120 new for it). At 46 lbs I can safely lift it onto my work bench (space is limited in my workshop), and they offer a 24TPI blade for it that is half the price of the MM saw. The only modification I made for it is a tighter blade guide thingy (the black one is OEM, the aluminum one is the one I made with the bandsaw ) so that I can cut smaller things without the risk of it falling through.



I'm not sure how much experience you have with shop saws, but these are things to consider. Straight clean cuts in metal are not the bandsaws forte, even with the rip fence, cuts will still be rough to the touch and will require finishing with a sanding tool or file. Table saws with metal cutting blades are better suited for straight cuts. Bandsaws are messy and require regular cleaning after cutting metal (old toothbrush and a vacuum will do the trick), too much metal dust and buildup on the internal wheels (if they are the rubber lined type) will set the blade out of alignment if you don't tidy up. BUT, the versatility, speed, and ease of use really make the bandsaw a great tool for those of us with limited space and money, which I think makes it a top pick for somebody looking for the closest that they can get to a do-it-all saw. My bandsaw has taken half hour hand sawing jobs and have turned them into 5 minute sawing jobs, I don't regret getting it one bit.

Looks like some nice progress.

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-Ethan
Collection 8/2/2016
For more of the Diorama and my collection: On Facebook or On YouTube

Great work Dex.

Word is from a brass fan too. I ma less active on this forum, but still busy.

CP 3026/1126 switchers:
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CN 1501 track geometry test car "BUDD":


CN 1501 test run

Cheers!

Stephane

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___________________________________________________
Playing with toys since 1970, now building them.

I finished all of the lift arms. I've added the middle support, and the part that looks like a blade will be shaped into the appropriate appearance later. It was really tricky getting all of this lined up. For 100% handmade with no milling equipment, I'm happy with the result. Man, I'd love an X-Y table though.

Dex, I don't want to contaminate this post with my stuff. But please log on this forum for the making of.

Diesel Detailer

BUDD

I really like your project by the way. I don't have a miling machine yet, but I must admit that it might be in the plans for the future. Now no matter the tools you have, that requires talent and you are obviously doing great. Thanks for sharing.

Stephane

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___________________________________________________
Playing with toys since 1970, now building them.

Hey Max, long time no see.

My dremel self destructed a year ago when I used the, wait for it, jig saw attachment on wood. However I've used cutting wheel on a regular drill for brass, but I found them too messy. I feel the bandsaw offers more freedom with a more contained mess, and no risk of exploding wheels. It cuts through brass like butter. The TPI of the blade is crucial though. 24 is plenty sufficient, go too much lower and it'll grab, and that's dangerous. For straight cuts in .5mm brass, I just score it with a blade, lock it in the vice along the score, and snap it. Anything thicker I use the band saw. For the thicker stuff, like what I used for the booms, I couldn't imagine trying to do that with a wheel; the saw is just so effortless. So to sum it up, most all my cuts now are done on the band saw, with occasional score and snaps for the thin stuff. All my cleanup work is done with grinding and sanding bits or hand files.

My drill press is variable speed, and I only need lubricant when drilling zinc, which is where the exploding Harbor Freight bit happened (I needed metric bits in a hurry, and they were the only ones available). Zinc seems to heat and grab onto the bits. As far a drilling brass I don't use oil. I've found that it actually gums up the hole and works against you. Like you said, nice and slow and you're good.

Thanks for the compliments BTW! I'll post pics on Sunday of my latest work.

Great work, are you using a torch or a gun for soldering?

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If Mother Nature wanted fiberglass boats, she would have planted fiberglass trees.

I've loved following this thread, keep up the great work! Looking forward to the next update.

Rowan.

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1:25th scale CAT 375L excavator

Finished all the the vertical connectors. (Anybody know what these are actually called?)




I wanted to do the upper arms next, but I need a compound table so that I can make more precise measurements in between holes. So while that's enroute from the Ebays, I decided to get started on the buckets.



Round bends are done by hand (guess what other tool I'd like some day?)





This mini break is pretty nifty, though I had to do a lot of modding to take the slop and play out of it.



Basically had to eyeball the design off of photos and make my own blue prints



Out side frame of bucket with a TEASER! (I'm still a long way from being done with these.)



Inside of buckets and outside soldered together.




I'll get the sides done this week. I finally have some free time again