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can some one help me on how to reeve a hook block please ?
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what crane does the block go to, how many sheaves?
Brandon my youtube channelMy Facebook Page
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it is for the ltm 11200 i had the model delivered yesterday and discovered that there was no instructions in the box so i have sent an email to nzg but they take a long time to reply so i could do with some help please if possible its a 3 sheave block and a 11 sheave block.
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i am new to the lift side
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i dont have this crane yet but will very soon, on most of my cranes, i just do a over and under setup, make the line go over the sheaves on the crane boom head then run it straight down and under the sheaves on the block then back up and over the boom sheaves and repeat the process, hope this helps, there might be someone with a diagram of it, good luck and welcome to the lift side!!!!
Brandon my youtube channelMy Facebook Page
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Okay this is a good question. Its all about keeping it tight and keeping the rope on the pulleys. This is your biggest frustration. Get some silver hair clips, ask you mom, wife sister for two. As you pull the rope through and pull it tight you use the hair clips to pinch the rope around the pulley so it does not come off as you go to reeve the next sheeve. Come over the top of the boom head and down in front of of the block, through the block up the back side of the block to the back side of the boom head and back over teh top. Here is a set up that I use to hold things steady, a camera tripod. Reeve left to right and tie off on a sheeve or tie off point, depending on the crane. Remember to use the hair clips to keep it tight! Oh and I forgot, use a bit of fray check ( a sewing supply, again ask mom, wife, sister) or a few drops of super glue to stiffen the end of the rope to help push thought the sheeves. Also get your self some tweezers to.
Bob Bobs CranesCome Over To The Lift Side . . . . . . . We Have Cookies!!!!
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thanks for the help guys i will now give it a go.
many thanks jon.j
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I can't over stress the importance of maintaining some sort of tension on the standing line while you're pulling new line in. Bob has re-rigged so many cranes, he has it down to a science. I have small springloaded clamps that I attach to the (finished) reeved line. They just hang free, but provide enough tension on the sheaves so the line won't pop out. I suspect the 11200 comes with plastic sheaves which are notoriously difficult to keep in place. You also might investigate swapping out the existing line with MuskyMaster - it is a replacement line which better "sits" in the sheaves. Don't get frustrated - it takes some patience  but eventually you'll develop a technique which will work on almost all blocks. 
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11200 comes with metal sheeves!
im able to reeve everything without tension on it, i dont find needing tension all that important as long as you pull the line through slowly and straight it stays on pretty well.
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This is reeved  This is laced  Both have thier place ..advantages and disadvantages. However reeved is the common term used in the industry over laced ....Why ..I dont Know ..but on some cranes the line is indeed reeved over laced ..
Q-Ball a wolf in Jesus skin ---the sorcerer of reasonable commentary  I smile & wave Sometimes I think life is just a rodeo,
The trick is to ride and make it to the bell.
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has anyone reeved the YCC demag hook blocks??
i came close to smashing it into dust not so long ago haha,deffinately one of the most patience sapping hooks to reeve
Why is "phonetically" spelt with a "ph"?
... It's better to be silent and thought a fool, then to speak up and remove all doubt
The complex of Newgrange was originally built between c. 3100 and 2900 BC,[2] meaning that it's aproximately 5,000 years old. According to Carbon-14 dates,[3] it is more than 500 years older than the Great Pyramid of Giza in Egypt, and predates Stonehenge by about 1,000 years.
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Lotsa - the first one is a square reeve, yes?
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Good info Lotsacrane!!!!
Why is "phonetically" spelt with a "ph"?
... It's better to be silent and thought a fool, then to speak up and remove all doubt
The complex of Newgrange was originally built between c. 3100 and 2900 BC,[2] meaning that it's aproximately 5,000 years old. According to Carbon-14 dates,[3] it is more than 500 years older than the Great Pyramid of Giza in Egypt, and predates Stonehenge by about 1,000 years.
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This is a great topic. I don't have problems reeving the small hooks but my YCC one from the 1800 gives me fits
- John
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DeWoc19 wrote:Lotsa - the first one is a square reeve, yes? They call it that and ,,right angle reeving .. Edit ..In lacing theres a little tendancy for the load block to tip or slant ..anybody that put in 8 or more part of line will notice that the block will tip a little ..because of the line speed at the end ..the live side coming of the head will always hang lower than the dead end side .. in reeving ..this dosent happen and the load block stays a little better level .. Just run the two diagrams above through your head ..functionwise
Q-Ball a wolf in Jesus skin ---the sorcerer of reasonable commentary I smile & wave Sometimes I think life is just a rodeo,
The trick is to ride and make it to the bell.
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The big 1750 hook was a nightmare as I recall. With two cats in the house, I just haven't felt like tempting fate by re-stringing that guy...
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my 18000 block is tough, took all the patience i had, but once its all reeved, it looks awesome
Brandon my youtube channelMy Facebook Page
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cranedude07 wrote:my 18000 block is tough, took all the patience i had, but once its all reeved, it looks awesome Laced ..my young padawan learner
Q-Ball a wolf in Jesus skin ---the sorcerer of reasonable commentary I smile & wave Sometimes I think life is just a rodeo,
The trick is to ride and make it to the bell.
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If the sheeves have a lot of slop in them, I've found that cutting thin pieces of card board and wedging them between the sheeves helps. It stabilizes the sheeves and helps keep the line from jumping off the sheeves. The only tricky part is pulling the card board out when you're done.
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