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My first project! For those that would like to follow along and offer tips, please feel free. I'm sure I will need some advice on certain things as well - like how do you put those drilled out rivets back in there?!  And away we go! Before Mr. Clumsy turned on the Dremel  Rut roh!  Also, what's the trick to keeping the rivets (almost) in tact? BobM mentioned in an e-mail that if you juuuust barely take off the flange you can re-use them. My just barely was sometimes quite a bit! Do you use a bit slightly larger or smaller to accomplish this? Bug
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Myself,I use a fairly larger drill bit (sharper the better) and do it by hand. By hand takes a little longer (by hand as in twisting the drill bit with your fingers,rivets are soft),but it also does less damage to the rivet (and/or model). If you are going to try and re-use the rivet this works best.
If you mess up a rivet you can buy copper tubing at any hobby shop that would work quite well too. You may have to resize the hole a small bit.
Tricky part if you can't flair the used rivet or tubing, is not getting too much glue on the end and locking up the joint.
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What exactly are you trying to do w/that?
-Adam
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Steve wrote:Myself,I use a fairly larger drill bit (sharper the better) and do it by hand. By hand takes a little longer (by hand as in twisting the drill bit with your fingers,rivets are soft),but it also does less damage to the rivet (and/or model). If you are going to try and re-use the rivet this works best.
If you mess up a rivet you can buy copper tubing at any hobby shop that would work quite well too. You may have to resize the hole a small bit.
Tricky part if you can't flair the used rivet or tubing, is not getting too much glue on the end and locking up the joint. Yea I do it by hand also. Or I some times use a drill press set on a low speed. If you have access to a variable speed drill press.
-Ethan Collection 8/2/2016For more of the Diorama and my collection: On Facebook or On YouTube
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Punch the rivet out, go buy some brass or order it and replace it that way. Easy fast and no messing with the silly rivets.
Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about.
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"What exactly are you trying to do w/that?" "Spruce it up" a bit! Thanks for the advice on the brass tubing. I'll see if I can locate some at the Hobby Lobby or train shop. Bug
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gabugman wrote:"What exactly are you trying to do w/that?"
"Spruce it up" a bit!
Thanks for the advice on the brass tubing. I'll see if I can locate some at the Hobby Lobby or train shop.
Bug I like 'em spruced down and more than abit.  
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Claus, That is some mighty fine "sprucing"!
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Thanks man, guess I was born with dirty hands.
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Finally got some time in the "shop" (haha!) and was able to start the paint removal process. Anyone ever use this stuff (not the beer)?  I try to steer clear of toxic chemicals in most everything I can. This seemed like a good alternative to some of the harsher stuff out there. Don't be fooled, it still will give ya quite the headache if you perch too long over it (no, not the beer!)! Here's a pan full of JD pie complete with stripper pole.   Van Gogh in action.  Since this is not as caustic as standard paint removers it takes a while to work. No problems, I'll check it out around noon today and see what kind of mess I have!  Anyone hungry yet?! Bug
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I think that it is time to move dinner time to later in the evening. 
-Ethan Collection 8/2/2016For more of the Diorama and my collection: On Facebook or On YouTube
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Bug,
That is all I use. Use it on my cabinets, models everything. Water will deactivate it. You will probably need two coats and check it after a hour and she will be good to go, I also use a tooth brush to scrub it down when I am taking the paint off. Stubborn areas hit with the wire wheel for the dremel tool and it will clean it right up. Also wash them down with soap sometimes the residue is still on there. Give it a nice rub with 320 grit sand paper and you should be good for paint.
Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about.
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Those parts come clean yet ? Like to see how they turned out before you paint.
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Well, not having experience with anything else I can't say whether the Citristrip was decent or not, comparably speaking. It did what I needed it to!  Wore out a dremel stainless brush getting the fine areas paint free. If I didn't know better, I'd say this ole gal is ready for some new color.  I'll try to get the primer on it this week but am headed up to Hendersonville, NC for a 4 day weekend. Maybe I'll stop in Dad's Cats just to drool.  One thing is for certain, this definitely is a labor of love. I can't imagine trying to do this for a living. Keep checking back!
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If you want to get all the paint, which would be best for painting, you can get a small wire brush or wire wheel. I just run the wire wheel on my drill press so I can handle the parts and it holds the wire wheel in one place with it on. Cleans the stuff on real nice. Also, some mineral oil I use Klean Strip, will help soften it and take it off before you run the wire wheel or brush on it. Just asome suggestions.
Real men drive diesels!
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OK, let me ask a question or two... Obviously not ALL the paint is gone. I would assume (I know) that all the clear coat is off. Is this clean enough for a repaint or does it need every lil speck off? Believe it or not, I really didn't see as much paint left on there as what the camera seems to see?! I think some of it may be reflectivity. I have done as much to the tracks as I'm going to, not gonna take them apart and do each link individually (not only am I lazy, I'll be repainting them yellow anyway). And don't forget, I live on a horse farm so Momma doesn't understand how I disappear into my cave for 6 hours at a time (haha, silly woman!). Won't the primer cover any remaining paint? Bug
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gabugman wrote:OK, let me ask a question or two... Obviously not ALL the paint is gone. I would assume (I know) that all the clear coat is off. Is this clean enough for a repaint or does it need every lil speck off? Believe it or not, I really didn't see as much paint left on there as what the camera seems to see?! I think some of it may be reflectivity. I have done as much to the tracks as I'm going to, not gonna take them apart and do each link individually (not only am I lazy, I'll be repainting them yellow anyway). And don't forget, I live on a horse farm so Momma doesn't understand how I disappear into my cave for 6 hours at a time (haha, silly woman!). Won't the primer cover any remaining paint? Bug Give it another coat and take it off with steel wool like a number 2. Take it off after an hour. Two coats is what I always do. If you are going to D.A.D'S Cats tell my buddy Dean I said hello. Great guy there.
Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about.
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You can try carburettor cleaning spray to remove all the fine specks of paint in the crevices.
Dolphin
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gabugman wrote:OK, let me ask a question or two... Obviously not ALL the paint is gone. I would assume (I know) that all the clear coat is off. Is this clean enough for a repaint or does it need every lil speck off? Believe it or not, I really didn't see as much paint left on there as what the camera seems to see?! I think some of it may be reflectivity. I have done as much to the tracks as I'm going to, not gonna take them apart and do each link individually (not only am I lazy, I'll be repainting them yellow anyway). And don't forget, I live on a horse farm so Momma doesn't understand how I disappear into my cave for 6 hours at a time (haha, silly woman!). Won't the primer cover any remaining paint? Bug Getting every little piece off, will let the finish paint come out cleaner. I haven't ever used primer before with models. No, you don't need some take all the links aparts, just try to get them as clean as possible. Take some time here and you will be more satifated with the end product.
Real men drive diesels!
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gabugman,
Thanks for showing the results. And no,it's not clean enough yet.
For a really good looking end result,you do need to get all the paint off. Other wise all those little nooks and cranies will show what you left behind (door edges,grills etc.) when you re-paint. I use a good (thick pastey) remover that will remove (at the least) 3-5 layers (like for stripping painted wood) and safe for metal. Put it on thick and let it do the work for an hour or two. That model paint is thick and will almost come off like a rubber sheet on the wider areas and get most of the nooks and cranies. I also use a dental pick to "help" the tight areas along. It's normal to do a second coat and even a third. You'd be surprised how much detail can be found in the metal diecast under a thick coat of paint even on a "cheap" model.
After I get all the paint off,I give it a bath with a plastic scrub brush in a VERY HOT (also wear gloves for this too) tub of water with a NO BLEACH laundry detergent. That cuts all the crud,scum and crap off the metal. Rince in very HOT water.
Primer is a bond between the metal and paint. Not made to "hide" anything.
Before I use a primer,I clean the metal with paint thinner and let that dry (with the help of compressed air) then do a couple LIGHT coats of primer (almost) drying between coats. Let the primer dry slightly then add THIN coats of paint to color the model NOT coat it all at once.
That's just a nut shell quick version. I do a few other things like baking ....
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