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Crane Reeving Tips and Tricks! Options · View
gabugman
Posted: Tuesday, January 01, 2013 10:22:12 AM

Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 6/29/2007
Posts: 538
Location: Atlanta, GA
Happy New Year everyone!

I have decided (after 4 years) to remove my collection from storage and display it in the man cave. Most of the ez stuff has been unboxed and set out. Now I'm starting to get into the crawlers and am remembering why this hobby can be a pita (that's pain in the azz for those not familiar with the acronym).

I'm pretty sure there are a couple threads already out there but figured it's a new year and there are certainly some new members with new ideas on working thru this amazingly patience testing operation.

With that being said, please share with us all how you simplify this aspect of collecting!

TIA,
Bug

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Paul R
Posted: Tuesday, January 01, 2013 11:46:50 AM

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Joined: 1/11/2007
Posts: 6,905
Location: Lincolnshire
Happy New Year bug!

My crane reeving tips:

1. A big tin a patience.

2. I usually change the string that is supplied for Braided fishing line, or Musky Master as used in the US. 18lb line for 300t or less and 27lb for the larger cranes. This is just a rule of thumb. The only models I don't change it on are the NZG 11200's and WSI cranes.

3. A good reeving diagram and make sure you fully understand it before embarking on reeving the crane.

4. 2-3 business cards or other thin cardboard. I use this to insert between the pulleys and the framework that hold them in place and it stops the line jumping from pulley to pulley.

5. A long, thin and bendy needle for some cranes. There is one called the Big Eye needle that I use. You can use this to thread the string through the pulleys on more difficult cranes.

6. When you're reeving, try and keep the line taught at all times. I have some scissor clamps to hold the line in place sometimes.

7. When reeving a large hook, I usually pull out enough line to reeve the whole hook. Just measure the distance from the boom tip to where you want the hook, for example 20cm and multiply this by the number of drops, for example 11: 20x11 = 220cm. Once a large hook with multiple pulleys is reeved, it can be very difficult to move it.

8. Find a sewing shop and buy some fray check. Dip the end of the string in this stuff and let it dry for a few minutes. It stops the end of the string fraying and makes reeving a lot easier.

A bit random but I hope some of the pointers are useful. I am reeving the LTM 1800 at the moment so I'll try and get some photos.

Paul R
Cubanb343
Posted: Tuesday, January 01, 2013 12:29:55 PM

Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Member

Joined: 3/10/2010
Posts: 814
Location: PA
Patience. No caffeine before starting, because my hands shake the entire time!! A lot of deep breaths as mistakes are bound to happen! Best of luck!!!
dain555
Posted: Tuesday, January 01, 2013 1:32:53 PM

Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Member

Joined: 6/4/2007
Posts: 2,209
Location: Sarasota, Florida, USA
Hey Bug good to see you on here!!

I have a small crane so not much to it but like Paul R said is good. Yes the "Big Eye" needle works great, you can get them from Wally World (Walmart) in the craft section where the beading stuff is or even in Michaels in the beading section.

Another good tip is when you reeve a hook to put some weight on it to keep the string taught especially on multiple pulley hooks. Also when reeving the "A" frames/back booms try to keep things taught too as it will greatly reduce the line jumping.

Good like and can't wait to see some pics. Oh and also while reeving take FREQUENT breaks to destress yourself otherwise you just might trow something like the crane!!!

Dain

I'm a kid at heart, so I will play with any model construction vehicle from 1:87 scale to 1:1 scale!!!!

Age is a state of time NOT a state of mind!!
Paul Crane
Posted: Tuesday, January 01, 2013 9:30:05 PM
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Member

Joined: 5/20/2006
Posts: 1,490
Location: Jacksonville, FL
One good tip somebody gave me when you're reeving a large (or any) hook block is attach it to a can of beer (or soft drink)...full. Yes, I know it's tempting.
allisoes
Posted: Tuesday, January 01, 2013 10:04:20 PM

Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Member

Joined: 1/12/2012
Posts: 134
Location: Fayetteville, NC
I soak the end of line with superglue and trim it back as it gets worn. I find the needles are sometimes hard to ger around the guides and sheaves.

I then use rubber bands to suspend and hold hook or equalizer block in one spot.

I use a mini clamp with the smooth rubber jaws to add tension on the lines.

I print out the section of the manufactures drawing that has the reading diagram and highlight it as I go.

Still takes a long time. I did the M18000 boom today. Hope to do the luffer this weekend.

Happy New Year everyone!

Ed
Antho
Posted: Tuesday, January 01, 2013 10:41:48 PM

Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 11/26/2008
Posts: 2,429
Location: Edmonton, AB/St-Hyacinthe, QC
Reading this makes my happy I'm only collecting earthmoving equipment...

Anthony... Or Frenchie. I must be French or someth'n..
Brett G
Posted: Wednesday, January 02, 2013 1:07:18 AM

Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Member

Joined: 11/13/2012
Posts: 657
Location: South oz THE ASS END OF THE RIVER , Australia
7 & 8 was helpfull to me Paul

have my M18000 to reeve yet. i been putting it off as i want to reeve all sheaves on the blocks.
have the OEM 15 sheave hook block , YCC 18 sheave hook block & OEM M16 hook block to go on the rooster.

what is the lift cap for the original large M18 hook block ? compared to the YCC 18 sheave block.
trying to work out which one goes on the boom & on the luffer.



FWIW i use a wooden clothes peg (has weight in it compared to plastic) to keep the line taught while reeving.
for instance i use the peg clipped on the line at about 15 to 20 cm from the sheave i last reaved. that way it keeps all the reaved sheaves taught while i'm doing the next one.

also that way i got two hands to use.


.

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gabugman
Posted: Wednesday, January 02, 2013 1:01:27 PM

Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Member

Joined: 6/29/2007
Posts: 538
Location: Atlanta, GA
Thanks everyone for your tips.

Paul, the card in between the pulleys sounds like it may help, my biggest prob is having the string jump the pulleys after I've painstakingly gotten over the next one.

Paul Crane, thanks for that tip, I may try that with the 18000.

Brett, I use these at both ends to keep the string taught after I make a pull thru the desired pulleys.

I'll look for a big eye needle while I'm out this week.

Keep em coming gents!

Bug

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