Almost a week since my last update but I've been working hard and this last part has been extremely time-consuming and frustrating!

I made the right side of the superstructure, which although quite simple is very detailed. I made the angular/sloped front part first (fuel or hydraulic oil tank?) and you can see it in the last photos. This piece was very annoying to assemble but it worked out good and I'm pleased with it.

The most difficult parts to assemble were the grills for the radiators. Each grill has a large main aperture with ten angled slats, and there are smaller apertures above and below the main ones. I used 1mm styrene for the main slats and 0.5mm styrene for the smaller ones. The internal uprights are 0.5mm styrene with notches cut at 1.5mm intervals with a scalpel.



Here are all the parts assembled - I will level it all with sanding before I paint it. Two of the slats are at slightly too steep and angle so I will go back and adjust them later.





And some of my drawings, showing the next challenge: the cab!

Nice job , doing grills is a pain in the butt

Jason

---

Nikl Scale Models
nikl scale models shapeways store

Thanks guys.

I've provisionally built the frame of the cab, and I'll probably prime, paint and finish it like the bucket because it's a separate component which will not be permanently attached to the model. I made a scale 6-foot guy to show the size of the machine.

Everything here is just sitting loosely in place, which is why there are few gaps and wonky edges... I can't fix the two sides of the superstructure until I have built the engine and hydraulic system detail, but I will probably be building the engine & exhaust cover next and continue with what I am able to do accurately. I may also redo the hinges on the doors with brass/aluminium as I'm not entirely pleased with the plastic ones.

I really need to sweet-talk Liebherr into giving me some better photos - they've already been in touch with me and have said that this machine is still a prototype which is why it's not on the website. I really hope no major changes are made if/when the machine goes into production!

Thanks Paul - I'd be delighted if there was a buyer for this model as it would give me the inspiration to do the other side of the tracks, LOL.

By way of progress, I'm actually almost done with the "outside" of the model, so to speak - I have done the top engine cover (provisionally, without detail) and have finished the walkways.

Video coming soon!!

After one very frustrating first attempt, I ended up making a jig for the walkways with 1.5mm mounting board (very thick paper, basically). It worked a treat.



I used CA to fix the fabric gauze to the support framework.



Temp. fixing to the model, and a sneak preview of the engine cover...



And after many more frustrating hours of labour, this:

I'm so impressed by this build, that it's hard to put it into words. Keep up the great work, and keep the updates coming. I can't wait to see this finished.

Nice video even have the railing retaining blocks complete with 4 bolt heads nice touch of realism there !

Chet

---

I live in my own little world it's ok they know me here

Well that sucks, that styrene can take a fall. Hopfully you can get it all back together quick.
I like the video shows off more than just pics

Jason

---

Nikl Scale Models
nikl scale models shapeways store

I looked at the photo and my heart sank! Then I read the post and thought "you lucky man!".

I hope your son now knows not to mess with Daddies stuff!

Paul R

Off the top of my head I can only think of one option that will look clean: Tinted adhesive film for automotive lights. AKA headlight/taillight tint film. It's pretty thin, and a million times more uniform than any hobby shop spray-on tint. The adhesive is forgiving enough that if you mess up, you can peel it off the clear window plastic without headache. It'll allow you to change it with ease if you're unsatisfied with the result. They sell two or three different darknesses. Ebay is a good source for it. I got a 12x28" roll for less than $5 shipped.

This is the "light gray" one.


Hope this helps!








That's also a good idea Chet. However, the type of tint that you usually find at your local auto store is going to be 15-20 dollars more than the headlight lint, the adhesive is super aggressive, and the less expensive ones will blue/purple over time. Just speaking from my experience with the two products. One clear advantage of the window tint is it's thinner, but it makes it tear and come apart if you try to remove it once the adhesive cures and sets it.

Thanks for all the helpful suggestions guys. I actually bought a small sample of automotive tint film but it didn't work well because it had an annoying "frosty" texture and was difficult to see through. Here in the UK the choice of tint films is pretty poor... either it's almost black, or it's got some colour in it, or it's totally mirrored on the outside and you can't see a darn thing through it. MEH!

However, I have one more idea, kind of along the same lines: filter gels for studio lights/camera flash guns. Despite being called "gels" they are basically exactly the same as automotive tint films but much higher quality because of their intended use. I have ordered a 24cm x 24cm sheet which I can double over if it's not dark enough, and it cost me the princely sum of £2, about $3. :d/