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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Member
Joined: 12/30/2008 Posts: 3,439 Location: Good ol' Indiana
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Time for another custom. I still don't know if I want to build a B or C model yet. I think the C model comes with planetary drives in the rear wheels but I am not sure. Here is some literature I picked up on the green meanies.
-Ethan Collection 8/2/2016For more of the Diorama and my collection: On Facebook or On YouTube
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Member
Joined: 12/30/2008 Posts: 3,439 Location: Good ol' Indiana
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-Ethan Collection 8/2/2016For more of the Diorama and my collection: On Facebook or On YouTube
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Member
Joined: 12/30/2008 Posts: 3,439 Location: Good ol' Indiana
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Hey how did a ts-24 sneak in here?
-Ethan Collection 8/2/2016For more of the Diorama and my collection: On Facebook or On YouTube
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Member
Joined: 12/30/2008 Posts: 3,439 Location: Good ol' Indiana
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-Ethan Collection 8/2/2016For more of the Diorama and my collection: On Facebook or On YouTube
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Member
Joined: 12/30/2008 Posts: 3,439 Location: Good ol' Indiana
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-Ethan Collection 8/2/2016For more of the Diorama and my collection: On Facebook or On YouTube
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Member
Joined: 12/30/2008 Posts: 3,439 Location: Good ol' Indiana
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I am leaning towards building the B model right now. Mostly because of the term "Loadrunner". Also because the B model seems more like a separate model instead of a Ts-24 without an engine like the C model. Started on the bowl construction
-Ethan Collection 8/2/2016For more of the Diorama and my collection: On Facebook or On YouTube
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Member
Joined: 3/14/2006 Posts: 753 Location: Southern California
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I am looking forward to following this build.
I used to have a fleet of Terex scrapers, mostly TS-24B's, with a couple of S-24B's and some of the ones that came in between the original TS-24 and the B models. They were prototype B's, and had a lot of things different than either the B or the original.
It looks like you are off to a good start.
Jerry
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Member
Joined: 3/21/2006 Posts: 5,046 Location: B-town
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So far so good. I like the green iron.....will be keeping tabs for sure.
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Member
Joined: 9/7/2005 Posts: 1,150 Location: Copake, NY
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Member
Joined: 12/30/2008 Posts: 3,439 Location: Good ol' Indiana
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Working on the apron It looks filthy with all of the flux on it, but that all cleans off.
-Ethan Collection 8/2/2016For more of the Diorama and my collection: On Facebook or On YouTube
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Member
Joined: 8/8/2002 Posts: 181 Location: Grand rapids, MI
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What do you use to cut your brass?
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Member
Joined: 12/30/2008 Posts: 3,439 Location: Good ol' Indiana
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jr3264 wrote:What do you use to cut your brass?
I use tin snips (metal shears) or my cut-off wheel on the dremel. A bandsaw would be nice but is an expensive purchase.
-Ethan Collection 8/2/2016For more of the Diorama and my collection: On Facebook or On YouTube
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Member
Joined: 3/6/2012 Posts: 206
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Looking good. Where did you get the brass you're using?
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Member
Joined: 4/3/2003 Posts: 2,084 Location: Rockford,IL.
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Interesting build Ethan. Thanks for posting the pictures. I would like to see this as a production model. The 24's had to be split in half to haul years ago.
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Member
Joined: 9/14/2011 Posts: 989 Location: Buffalo, NY
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Looking good, Ethan! Daily Diesel Dose.com| All Ready Mix.com | Plowsite DOT Thread | If your only contribution is complaining, please don't contribute!
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Member
Joined: 12/30/2008 Posts: 3,439 Location: Good ol' Indiana
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Thanks guys. These builds are fun while I am on winter shutdown and have lots of time. Hobie wrote:Looking good. Where did you get the brass you're using? It is made by K&S. I get mine at ACE Hardware, but I see it for sale on ebay and hobby shops. kcmtoys wrote:The 24's had to be split in half to haul years ago.Whistle Good to know, I will have to incorporate that into the scraper neck Starting on the hardest part the neck. Also a mock up of the apron cylinder. A Norscot D8 ripper gave up its cylinders for this project. I am still looking for some wheels and tires, I am thinking of some of Neil's 631E wheels and tires, but those are still a couple millimeters too small. The Norscot 657G tires are too big. Are the tires and wheels on the EMD Euclid scrapers for sale anywhere? Those would be perfect.
-Ethan Collection 8/2/2016For more of the Diorama and my collection: On Facebook or On YouTube
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Member
Joined: 3/21/2006 Posts: 5,046 Location: B-town
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Contact the site(Buffalo something) that produces these models they may be able to provide separate parts.
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Member
Joined: 12/21/2007 Posts: 2,876 Location: Eastern Pennsylvania
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Very good progress so far Ethan. If you are looking for wheels, try Joal's Michigan L320, the wheels they have on there remind me of scraper wheels. Have to go through my pics, but I have some of a TS-24B.
-Mike, Collecting 1/50th Construction Diecast Since 2003. View My Collection Here, As of 03/29/24
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Member
Joined: 12/30/2008 Posts: 3,439 Location: Good ol' Indiana
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Got the tires squared away. I will be using a set designed for the 631. I tried doing some soldering with an iron but did not have much luck. Does anyone here use an soldering iron? I went back to using the soldering torch for now. Here is todays progress mostly on the tractor. Front grill and shroud
-Ethan Collection 8/2/2016For more of the Diorama and my collection: On Facebook or On YouTube
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Member
Joined: 3/6/2012 Posts: 206
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I'm using a resistive iron with a 250W replaceable electrodes. Gave up one the soldering irons. Using the needle point tips gives me pin point access with minimal cleanup.
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