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How-to guide: Miter cut exhaust stack with brass tubing. Options · View
Dex
Posted: Friday, April 15, 2016 6:02:38 PM

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Joined: 9/12/2012
Posts: 485
Location: San Diego, California
I've done a couple of these, so I figured I'd do a write up on it. This is for the miter cut, or, "Chino" style exhaust stack. It's similar to a bull horn or Aussie, but it's cut and joined, instead of bent.

1:1 version:



Things you'll need:
- Miter box
- Saw (shorter teeth are best, as they won't try to roll the tubing)
- Thin wall brass tubing of your desired size for the exhaust (mine is 2.5mm)
- The next step down in size of brass tubing that with firmly slide into your exhaust tubing. Most metric tubes can do this: i.e.: 1.5mm fits into 2mm, 2mm into 2.5mm, etc. (here I have 2mm).
- Exacto or scalpel blade
- Flat file with finer ridges
- Round file
- 400 grit paper or equivalent sanding stick.
- Super glue






Measure out the lenth of stack you need. For example, mine starts all the way at the base of the model and goes through the hood, so I need to include that in my total measurement.
Mark it, and lay it in the miter box. Most miter boxes have multiple angle slots, choose the 30 degree slot.





Hold the tube firmly and make your cut. Don't press the saw down too hard or you may risk deforming the tube.





Set your measured, cut piece off to the side. Now roll the bulk tube 180 degree in the miter box so that you can create the final piece. You may as use the 45 degree angle cut for this if you wish to.
End result should look like this: (Note, my open-side angle is 45 degree.)





Clean out the 3 cut ends. use the tip of the exacto blade to remove any flash that may have curled inwards from the cut, and use the round file to clean it up. Use the flat file and sand paper to gently trim back any flash on the outside of the tube.





Next slide the smaller tube into the stack until just a little bit sticks out the top, but not past the highest part of the angle. Test fit the 2nd part of the stack and make sure the two 30 degree seams fit nicely. Note, if you plan to solder this joint, push the inner tube out juuuust a tad more so you have a hair sized gap to allow flux and solder into. This inner tube has 2 purposes: added rigidity for the entire stack, and a seat for the 2nd piece.






Mark where the inner tube meets the base of your stack and cut it. If your tubing is too small, use a score and snap technique. To do this, simply lay the tube on the mat, and roll it back and forth under a blade, creating a score line/cut around the circumference of the tube, then put pressure on the cut and snap it like a pencil. If the part your cutting is too short to grab hold of, simple keep rolling under pressure, and you'll soon cut through it.




Slide the cut inner tube in 90% of the way, place a small dot on superglue at the tail end, and quickly slide the rest in. If you goof up and don't get it all in, in time, simply cut the remainder off, and glue it in the other end. Unless it's too short, then you may have to start over.






Now attach your end piece with super glue and clean up the seam! For soldering you can try to use a tiny bit of glue to hold the end piece in place for solder, but the heat may break the bond.





KyleS
Posted: Friday, April 15, 2016 9:44:54 PM

Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 2/3/2015
Posts: 643
Location: New Hampshire
Thank you! I've been looking for a how to on this. I've been trying very hard to bend tube with a brass fuel line bender and other methods but they never come out quite right. I'm looking for the Bull Hauler or Aussie as you put it but this might have to do.

- Kyle
Cat336EL
Posted: Saturday, April 16, 2016 12:23:50 AM

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Joined: 1/20/2014
Posts: 352
Location: South of VA, North of SC
I have been looking to build a stack like this for my 983. What size tubing do you recommend for that machine? Thanks for the tips!

...Dylan


My Instagram: Cat330DL_Man
3406E
Posted: Saturday, April 16, 2016 2:11:46 AM

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Joined: 6/21/2012
Posts: 546
Location: N. Cal
I use the same method for my exhaust stacks. I use styrene for stacks I plan to paint black and "rabbit ears" for chrome stacks for my trucks. I make my cuts on a 67.5 degree angle though, it keeps the 45 tip vertical.

Facebook: NorCalDiecastCustoms
Instagram: NorCalDiecastCustoms

Clifton
Basketball Man
Posted: Saturday, April 16, 2016 3:17:14 PM

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Joined: 12/30/2008
Posts: 3,439
Location: Good ol' Indiana
I have done a simulacra process before. I solder the joint together to provide a stronger joint.

-Ethan
Collection 8/2/2016
For more of the Diorama and my collection: On Facebook or On YouTube
Dex
Posted: Saturday, April 16, 2016 5:59:32 PM

Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 9/12/2012
Posts: 485
Location: San Diego, California
Basketball Man wrote:
I have done a simulacra process before. I solder the joint together to provide a stronger joint.


I soldered mine as well, but I demoed with glue because it's more accessible to most people. The soldering was tricky because the tip kept wanting to fall off. I finally resorted to putting a loop of really small solder wire inside the top section sitting on top of the inner tube. Then held the top in place while I heated the stack and the solder flowed down into the seam. worked out pretty well!
325cl
Posted: Saturday, April 16, 2016 8:24:16 PM

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Joined: 5/12/2006
Posts: 2,261
Location: NY
Very well written tutorial! I use the same technique when building custom exhaust stacks

Greg



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