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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 7/26/2010
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Location: Lansing, Michigan
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Hey all!
I've been trying to figure out why the a-frame on my 1300 doesn't move easily, let me bring you up to speed on the situation.
so i had to restring the a frame completely because the winch drum is to small for the amount of sting they put on it and it got tangled in the spring that pushes the drum back to make it lock.
after i bought some musky master line and restrung it i noticed that with weight pulling on the a frame the pullies don't want to turn and bind up, but they roll fine when its not strung at all.
that being said, the string just jumps the pullies when the tension is off the line because of the pulllies not wanting to turn, and eventually makes the string all tangled and needing a restring again....
any help is appreciated
Zack
"You can take the kid out of the sand box , But you can't take the sand box out of the Kid."
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Try using a drop or two of either sewing machine oil or hair clipper oil. I have a needle oiler that I got years ago and I keep Wahl hair clipper oil in it for use on my models. Most every model I have has been oiled with the hair clipper oil on pulleys, tracks, slewing rings, wheels, rollers and other joints right out of the box!!
You can get needle oilers at most hardware or sewing machine stores or at online places like online hardware places like Graingers. They are usually a plastic tube like container with a long metal tube that looks like a needle. Most have a rubber stopper on the end of the needle.
Dain
I'm a kid at heart, so I will play with any model construction vehicle from 1:87 scale to 1:1 scale!!!!
Age is a state of time NOT a state of mind!!
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Hard to say exactly what is wrong without seeing it. The sheaves on my 1280 bind up, but that's because the shafts are bent. Post pics if you can, Zack
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You can also find and utilize needle oilers for O-Gauge model trains.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 7/26/2010
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Location: Lansing, Michigan
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Alright...... So i oiled it and i think thats helped a little but after restringing it and working the a frame winch this is what it dose and i'm applying a little pressure so you would think that all the pullies would spin and take up the slack, but nope. 
Zack "You can take the kid out of the sand box , But you can't take the sand box out of the Kid."
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Rank: Advanced Member
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1) What size musky master are you using??? If you are using bigger than 18 pound test there the stuff is too big for the sheaves.
2) Are the pulleys a one piece unit?? On an NZG model it is unusual for the pulleys to be a one piece unit like Conrad uses.
3) If the pulleys are still catching when the rotate you may need to disassemble the group from the A frame and take a high grit (like 400+ grit) sand paper or a fine flat file and clean both sides of the pulleys and reinstall them with a drop of oil on them. Also might need to clean out where the string goes on each pulley also. I've had to do ALL this on some of my cranes to make the pulleys function properly.
Dain
I'm a kid at heart, so I will play with any model construction vehicle from 1:87 scale to 1:1 scale!!!!
Age is a state of time NOT a state of mind!!
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Location: Lansing, Michigan
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I got 27lb test, that's all I could find in black.
The pullies are all individual.
I'm gonna hunt down some of the correct size string and try that, maybe that's my problem.
Thanks dain for the help!!
Zack
"You can take the kid out of the sand box , But you can't take the sand box out of the Kid."
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27lb is way too thick. The NZG string isn't that bad. Can you put the NZG string back on and see how it goes. You really need to keep the live mast steady to reeve it. Any movement and your strings are gonna get loose and jump.
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CAT370DL wrote:I got 27lb test, that's all I could find in black.
The pullies are all individual.
I'm gonna hunt down some of the correct size string and try that, maybe that's my problem.
Thanks dain for the help!! That is very likely the problem. I had that happen to me when I tried to use 27# test musky master on TWH Manitowoc crane sheaves, and switching to 18# test line solved the issue (because it nests much better in narrow sheaves). However, I have not yest un-boxed or assembled my LR1300, so I can't speak with first hand experience about the specific model you are assembling. dain555 wrote:
3) If the pulleys are still catching when the rotate you may need to disassemble the group from the A frame and take a high grit (like 400+ grit) sand paper or a fine flat file and clean both sides of the pulleys and reinstall them with a drop of oil on them. Also might need to clean out where the string goes on each pulley also. I've had to do ALL this on some of my cranes to make the pulleys function properly.
If you are going to go to all the trouble of drilling out the pin to disassemble the sheave assembly, you might be better off just replacing all of the sheaves with YCC brass sheaves. They are top of the line sheaves. Just my opinion. Also, I have never been able to locate the correct size and color string in a brick and mortar store. However, you can buy 18# test black braided string on-line. If you specifically want Musky Master, you may have to search a little (as I think they are out of business), but companies are selling the equivalent - sometimes even calling it Musky Master. It is definitely out there. Last year, I bought 2 spools of both 18# and 27# test on-line, and I find myself using the 18# test on almost every crane I have. Good luck.
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Don L wrote:CAT370DL wrote:I got 27lb test, that's all I could find in black.
The pullies are all individual.
I'm gonna hunt down some of the correct size string and try that, maybe that's my problem.
Thanks dain for the help!! That is very likely the problem. I had that happen to me when I tried to use 27# test musky master on TWH Manitowoc crane sheaves, and switching to 18# test line solved the issue (because it nests much better in narrow sheaves). However, I have not yest un-boxed or assembled my LR1300, so I can't speak with first hand experience about the specific model you are assembling. dain555 wrote:
3) If the pulleys are still catching when the rotate you may need to disassemble the group from the A frame and take a high grit (like 400+ grit) sand paper or a fine flat file and clean both sides of the pulleys and reinstall them with a drop of oil on them. Also might need to clean out where the string goes on each pulley also. I've had to do ALL this on some of my cranes to make the pulleys function properly.
If you are going to go to all the trouble of drilling out the pin to disassemble the sheave assembly, you might be better off just replacing all of the sheaves with YCC brass sheaves. They are top of the line sheaves. Just my opinion. Also, I have never been able to locate the correct size and color string in a brick and mortar store. However, you can buy 18# test black braided string on-line. If you specifically want Musky Master, you may have to search a little (as I think they are out of business), but companies are selling the equivalent - sometimes even calling it Musky Master. It is definitely out there. Last year, I bought 2 spools of both 18# and 27# test on-line, and I find myself using the 18# test on almost every crane I have. Good luck. Cortland line is still in business, they are located in Cortland, NY up where I come from but from my sources they have quit making the Musky Master line of fishing line. Guess they didn't sell much of it as it was hard to find the last few years. Also the pin that usually holds in the pulleys on NZG models is a friction pin and not a rivet like on other models and comes out reasonably easy. All my NZG models use friction pins for the pulleys but there is usually one way the come out as they are tapered slightly but will come out easily.
Dain I'm a kid at heart, so I will play with any model construction vehicle from 1:87 scale to 1:1 scale!!!! Age is a state of time NOT a state of mind!!
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dain555 wrote:
Also the pin that usually holds in the pulleys on NZG models is a friction pin and not a rivet like on other models and comes out reasonably easy. All my NZG models use friction pins for the pulleys but there is usually one way the come out as they are tapered slightly but will come out easily.
Did not know that Dain. I knew NZG used some type of pin, but I still thought you had to drill them out to remove them on the LR 1300. Good to know. Thanks Don
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Ok guys, I contacted Cortland line company and it is confirmed they no longer make Musky Master braided line. They do have a Dacron braided line BUT the smallest they have is 30 pound test!!
Dain
I'm a kid at heart, so I will play with any model construction vehicle from 1:87 scale to 1:1 scale!!!!
Age is a state of time NOT a state of mind!!
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 7/26/2010
Posts: 807
Location: Lansing, Michigan
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Thanks for the info guy!! UPDATE: So i couldn't find 18# only 10# and 15# so i went with 10# since i didn't want to risk having it still to big for the pullies. I chose grey but it looks more of a green but i don't care, it works pretty good now and don't have near as bad of a problem as i had before. So i think i'm going to call this a fix for now, i think the NZG string was to much for the pullies thus making it bind up like it did   
Zack "You can take the kid out of the sand box , But you can't take the sand box out of the Kid."
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Rank: Advanced Member
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CAT370DL wrote:Thanks for the info guy!! UPDATE: So i couldn't find 18# only 10# and 15# so i went with 10# since i didn't want to risk having it still to big for the pullies. I chose grey but it looks more of a green but i don't care, it works pretty good now and don't have near as bad of a problem as i had before. So i think i'm going to call this a fix for now, i think the NZG string was to much for the pullies thus making it bind up like it did Very good, it looks nice on it as well, just watch for cable rusting, hdhe!! As long as it looks prototypical is all that matters whether it's black or gray is no difference, no if it were green like a lot of what I came across then that is a no go. Just remember to use the 25/27/30 pound test for the lifting cable as you want the strength of the line there.
Dain I'm a kid at heart, so I will play with any model construction vehicle from 1:87 scale to 1:1 scale!!!! Age is a state of time NOT a state of mind!!
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