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So I saved all my pennies and finally purchased a ycc models ltm 1400 + luffing jib. I Spent all day setting it up, then that night my girlfriends idiot drunk friend knocked it completely over doing alot of damage. As a result I now need these two pieces to get it fixed and displayable again.
Ok I can't figure out how to post photos but I need the last smallest boom section and the first luffing section that attaches to the boom. I emaill ycc asking if they can sell me those 2 pieces but still have no answer from them. What would you do? What should I do besides throwing it away and start saving money again( if I can even find it again). Please help!
Rob
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Hi Rob.
If you still have the broken parts try and glue them the with liquid weld a two part glue I have used this on a Demag 500 fly jib worked great
Also I have repaired a Manitwoc 1800 butt main jib with no problems.
Leon.
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rdestefano wrote:So I saved all my pennies and finally purchased a ycc models ltm 1400 + luffing jib. I Spent all day setting it up, then that night my girlfriends idiot drunk friend knocked it completely over doing alot of damage. As a result I now need these two pieces to get it fixed and displayable again.
Ok I can't figure out how to post photos but I need the last smallest boom section and the first luffing section that attaches to the boom. I emaill ycc asking if they can sell me those 2 pieces but still have no answer from them. What would you do? What should I do besides throwing it away and start saving money again( if I can even find it again). Please help!
Rob
Rob, YCC can sometimes take a while to reply, but they have been good with me in the past. If you still have a problem then send me a PM and I can contact them also. Paul R
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Thank you guys!! Leon, I'm going to go look around ground zero now maybe I can find some of the pieces. Thank you for the tip I have always wondered how to glue diecast metal together again. Now that I know how I have plenty of other uses for that glue. The cab snapped off of my lr 1600 i can glue that back on.
Thank you Paul, I will just be more patient. I have heard ycc models customer service is pretty good. Which is why I was kind of freaking out that they're not answering me. But I must give them time. I didn't think about how busy they could be.
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Rob,
I agree with what Paul R suggested. After an unfortunate mishap a few years ago, I was able to go through the dealer that sold me the YCC models, and eventually I was able to get all the replacement parts that I needed. I had the LTM1800 with full jib, at a configuration that put a lot of stress on the model.
There is a time and a place for drunk women, but rare and expensive crane models are never involved. Good luck with everything.
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Thanks for the advice John. It was pretty bad. My girlfriend started crying cuz she knew how much I've allways wanted it. The stupid drunk at one point laughed as I'm trying to pick up pieces. That sent me over the edge. I thought about making a scene but instead I put the crane in a safe place and just went to my moms house, called my girl and told her i'm coming back in 30 minutes get that idiotic dumb disrepectfull c**** out of my house before I get back. She was gone and She will never step foot in my house again. Unless she has $1600 and an apology for me. I'm fuming again now just thinking about it lol.
Thats what I want to get next YCC ltm 1800 with luffing jib and with the ballast set. If I can even find all 3 of those. That is an amazing model!
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Rob, If you live in the United States the stuff you want to look for is J-B Weld, it's a 2 part epoxy that works great on diecast and plastic parts. It can also be sanded, filed and painted with really good success. I use the Kwik Weld version as it sets up in a couple minutes the regular J-B Weld takes quite awhile to set. Just make sure you clean in and around the joint and leave it a little rough so the stuff has something to kind of "grip". Also another tip for you is if you have any plastic pins that hold any boom sections together change them out for brass bolts with nuts!! I know NZG uses them on their cranes and they work great. NZG uses what is called 00-90 bolts and nuts, they are about the smallest made. Other sizes that are used are 0-80 and 1-76, in rare cases some models have a 2-56 size. You can get these bolts and nuts here, they run about $10 for 100 00-90 bolts and about the same for the nuts. I always try to keep plenty of 00-90, 0-80 and 1-76 bolts and nuts on hand plus I even have brass rod in sizes 00, 0 and 1 that I can thread with threading does and I even taps in the above sizes too!!
Dain I'm a kid at heart, so I will play with any model construction vehicle from 1:87 scale to 1:1 scale!!!! Age is a state of time NOT a state of mind!!
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Hi Dain,
Thanks for pointing out the name of JB weld to Rob, I could not remember the product name .
I will have get more myself also thanks about the nuts and bolts nice web site.
Leon.
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sd90 wrote:Hi Dain,
Thanks for pointing out the name of JB weld to Rob, I could not remember the product name .
I will have get more myself also thanks about the nuts and bolts nice web site.
Leon.
No problem Leon, I'm a model railroader also so I have learned a lot of different things along the way. I actually learned of J-B Weld from my last job I had, never knew the stuff existed before that!! I use it on a lot of stuff, it is also great for joining 2 different types of plastic as well as plastic to metal and different metals. As I said I like the Kwik Weld version as it sets reasonably fast. The original version was too slow setting as it would take about 20 minutes so I had to continuously check it and adjust the pieces till it set up, that was a pain!! No problem on the nuts and bolts thing, I started lacking some for my NZG HS855HD crane and someone on here mentioned micro fasteners as a source, I know MicroMark has them but they are more expensive for fewer pieces. Also if you want to do the brass rod thing like I do, I use brass rod as pins and thread the ends for nuts as the rod makes for a less loose joint. I go to here for my brass rod, MicroMark has the rod too but again it's expensive there for what you get.
Dain I'm a kid at heart, so I will play with any model construction vehicle from 1:87 scale to 1:1 scale!!!! Age is a state of time NOT a state of mind!!
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Sorry to hear about your dilemma, drunken idiots can be more hazardous than cats for models. LOL! For the broken section that is severed, if it is solid and not hollow, then I would recommend drilling both broken ends with a fine drill designed for metal (tungsten carbide). You can perform the drilling with a small hand drill to improve accuracy. With the right drill bit you won’t need much force. Then cut the head off of a sewing needle and use a file to toughen the edges up of the needle (this will help the glue to adhere). Now use the recommended JB Weld to secure the pin across the drilled out pieces and the section will be as strong as new. Hopefully you have recovered the broken pieces. Please let me know if you require any clarification. Take care and best of luck.
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Chandler, good idea, I've also used brass rod too and threaded both for a good snug fit. I've used brass rod for quite a few fixes on my models that accidentally got broken by falling on the floor. Our floors are especially hard on models as it consists of peel and stick tile on concrete floors!!! A 3 foot drop caused some major damage!!!
Dain
I'm a kid at heart, so I will play with any model construction vehicle from 1:87 scale to 1:1 scale!!!!
Age is a state of time NOT a state of mind!!
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Thank you guys i would love to try your ideas. Unfortunately i could not find the pieces that broke off. I think my only hope is ycc customer service at this point no response yet bit it has only been 6 days since I emailed them. The only email I can find for them is info@yccmodels.com. I pray they answer me,if not I might as well throw it in the dumpster and start saving money again.
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rdestefano wrote:Ok I can't figure out how to post photos but I need the last smallest boom section and the first luffing section that attaches to the boom.
Rob
Rob, Can you confirm these are the parts you need?  Thanks, Paul R PS - Dump the girl - she's too expensive 
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Yes its the piece you circled to the right. The second piece I need is the boomhead on the crane, or the entire last telescopic section with the head attached. Im going to try to figure out how to upload photos. I took photos on my phone but i cant upload them here I dont know why
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rdestefano wrote:Yes its the piece you circled to the right. The second piece I need is the boomhead on the crane, or the entire last telescopic section with the head attached. Im going to try to figure out how to upload photos. I took photos on my phone but i cant upload them here I dont know why Ok. I’ll see what Chou says and if he replies, I’ll let you know. There’s a sticky topic about posting photos on the main page. Read through that and you should figure it out. Paul R
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Thank you so much Paul. Whatever it costs is fine.
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Posting these for Rob.  image1 (1) by Paul Moar, on Flickr  image2 by Paul Moar, on Flickr
Scania V8. The best sounding truck in the world.
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rdestefano wrote:Thank you so much Paul. Whatever it costs is fine. Hi, I’ve made contact with YCC. They will check what they have. He said it will cost something but I don’t know what yet. I’ll contact you via PM once I’ve further information. Thanks, Paul R
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Thank you sooooo much!! How ever much it costs is pefectly fine.
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Damn, what a mess. The damage sems so small but I've been there before a couple of times and I know how much of a pain it is - it's good that you'll be getting it sorted. Props to Paul R for helping you out!
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