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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Member
Joined: 10/2/2007
Posts: 5,966
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thats gotta be an 18000 luffer and boom tip.... looks real good on the 16000 though!!
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 9/4/2002
Posts: 41
Location: Horse Shoe,NC
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Ulf,I'm not saying it's ok to sell bad work or junk,just that these are relativly inexspensive things to buy,compared to what goes into designing and building such things,that for the prices involved,I don't get too upset as long as the manufacturer makes it right at no cost.As a commercial plumber/superintendant,I've seen many errors in judgement that we have to pay to correct.In the end ,the customer gets the value they paid for,without paying for the natural element of human error.
Guys,that's several parts:
The boom top is the 16000 with shievs and jib mounts added,and can still recieve the original jib tip.
The bridles are 18000 spares,some that were extras when TWH gave me a new main boom head.They have been cut down in the middle to the proper length for a 16000.
The jib itself is made up of 555 sections,with all unneeded parts stripped and rollers added to the tip.
The winch drum is from the 18000.
This was my first major(to me) customization,and while I know it's not true to the original,it's still one of my favorites due to the sweat I have in it.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 2/8/2008
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Location: Anchorage, AK
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Agreed... 
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 4/4/2008
Posts: 62
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Awesome job!!! Mind giving up some secrets on how you made it?
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 9/4/2002
Posts: 41
Location: Horse Shoe,NC
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Ranger,see edit to post above.Two things to do to it that im not looking forward to:
I did'nt put enough string on the luffer winch,and adding more lead where ever possible to get rid of the extra red weights.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 2/8/2006
Posts: 2,612
Location: Iowa
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The boom problem(s) have been an on-going problem from one degree or another on all the larger truck crane models too. With the AC-500 (and Hyd lift cylinders on other) Truck Cranes, it was down drift from too tall a boom/jib OR it was breaking outriggers on the truck frame from the stress. The best way to solve those problems were to beef up the outriggers and add a pin to the main lift cylinder on the boom to hold it. Another was to run a clear fishing line as a "safety" to a higher point above the model in case of a boom failure. Or just set the model up in it's heaviest lift configuration (like it should be) or in transport and have zero problems with breakage (unless you actually do play with the model and break it). Much holds true for all the Crawler Crane models. Skip the high reach,use a shorter jib, set them up in "heavy lift" mode and use the extra boom sections as loads.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 3/21/2006
Posts: 5,046
Location: B-town
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Not right at all Jon. You should speak for yourself and let me speak for me  . I was merely adding banter to this thread...in a way to state my views while in the same time trying to glean any knowledge that came from real feedback, certainly where I was wrong in my views. I don't have this model nor have I seen the previous threads on it's problems. ..and whether you understand this or not, there is some truth in the use of paint in this way at least in toys and modeling. Not in replacement of fasteners or adhesives, but in a way to protect areas where pieces are fit together as well as being an aesthetic or to hide seams and joinery. Chris
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 4/4/2008
Posts: 62
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Cool, thanks. Now, maybe you could help me out some here. If I choose to order the 16000, I would love to make this luffing jib for it. I know you can order some parts off the Dhs site, like the 555 boom sections(What could I do for pendeant lines??), and some of the other pieces. My question is, what excate pieces would I need to order to do this(Maybe you could check out the Dhs parts catorgery and tell if it 's possible?)
One last question also, can the 18000 weights form Dhs be used on the 16000. Thanks! I was just reviewing the specs for the 16000, is it can have the luffer, so its not unreal. Also, could we maybe get some closeups of the 16000, and the luffer and luffer head. Thanks alot for the help!!
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 2/20/2008
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Location: TN
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The best way to avoid boom failure on the cranes:
Do not pick the crane up by the boom when moving from one place to another. Would a real boom section hold the weight of the superstructure and counter weights?
Do not hang heavy objects on the hooks. Tipping load and structure load are not the same.
Do not boom the boom down too far.
These cranes are collector items, not toys.
All you guys have posted great knowledge about real cranes. Things like side wind stress, unlevel ground contitions, jerky operators, swinging loads, non certified repairs and alterations, adding more counter weight, and a bunch more cautions. But then it comes to the scale model and you idiots ignore all the cautions.
DUH...wouldn't you take the same precautions as if it were a real crane????
Clevis
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 4/13/2007
Posts: 2,441
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Dave Miller- hands off to you on your luffer, I would stand tall with that great customization.
Clevis- well put brother
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 9/4/2002
Posts: 41
Location: Horse Shoe,NC
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Thanks Cheese.
Ranger,the parts,I believe,are still on DHS.You'll need the 555's 40' boom sections,head and butt sections,and pennant lines(several).Then you'll need the 18000's boom head,wich includes the back bridle,and the front bridle.The boom head parts,shieves,etc.are what I put into the 16000's boomhead,and I cut the top corners off the 18000 boomhead,with the holes for the bridles,and epoxied them into the 16000 head.The winch drum came out of an extra 18000 boom but,wich I bought off DHS.The mounts for the jib are two of the large adjustable links,that came with the 18000 extension kit,epoxied to the inner sides of the boom head,wich is the center section of an 18000 boomhead cut down in with & length to fit inside the 16000 head.
I almost wished I had the factory red model,but at least I learned a little about stripping and painting!
Also,the PT0037 counterweights,from the 18000,are the same as the 16000's.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 4/4/2008
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Thanks Dave. I don't know for sure if I'm doing it or not. What I really want is just a differnt head for the 16000 right now. Will the 18000 boom head work?? This may be my first crane, and I like all the detail, height, etc, but not just the two smaller hooks. I'd like to put a larger hook on, but th ejib dosen't support that. I emailed TWH about the head, and asked if they have any plans on bringing out a 16000 boom head with multiple sheaves for a bigger hook. I'll know tommorrow, but my guess is not. When it comes time to buy, I guess I'll post my choices on there, and see which one gets the most hype. Until then, its a waiting game for some cash to come in. Later and thanks for the help!
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 6/24/2007
Posts: 713
Location: scotland/harthill
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Now this i can not understand you all rip siku for making a crane with plastic out riggers but you guys buy x amount of $ on one crane which the boom snaps in half. Now before i get set upon which will happen the siku cranes are much stronger than any other like conrad,nzg,twh the siku boom is thick and heavy. Now you all might be asking where is the siku crane i had well it was sitting on a shelf fully rigged left the window open and a gust of wind caught the load on the siku boom and down she went the crane was fine the only problem was there was a plastic pin that held the back mast that broke in two(2) so the crane was beyond repair and it only cost me £55 which i wasn't to bothered about because i knew it didn't cost me £200-£400 so ill stop my rambling and get to the point. Cheap cranes like siku seem to be much better then the £200-£400 cranes.
A.Graham
Scrap and Haulage.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Easy to understand ASH MAN. You are talking about a high end toy,not a static model.
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